We struggled for about a month, as to whether we should write this guide to Valladolid. Whether we actually wanted to tell anyone about this place. What we've come down to is this... 

You don’t get to choose Valladolid, Valladolid chooses you. For us, it happened quickly. Within just a few days of moving here, Valladolid felt so much like “home,” that we were starting to get nervous.

This is how we ended up living in Valladolid, Yucatan for 3 months...

Digital Nomad Guide to Valladolid, Mexico

After just one movie night at Casa Hamaca new friendships were formed, bonds were made, and by Sabado we had a fully fledged social schedule. And even though we were the youngest expats in town, by about 20 years, no body seemed to notice. This was not the isolated Digital Nomad life we’d become accustomed to after 3 years on the road. 

Now, 3 months later, we’re anticipating our departure from Valladolid with heavy hearts, but also with the full understanding that we will be back. 

(That's the short version of course...)

On Paper, Valladolid [vaya-doh-leed] seems like a terrible choice for Digital Nomads. 

• No coworking spaces

• Few workable cafes

• No Beach

• General lack of apartment rentals

• “Not a lot to do”

But there’s one area in which Valladolid outshines so many other places we’ve visited. Community. I’m not talking about the kind of community you find hanging around Dojo Bali. This isn’t an expat community, it’s not a digital nomad community, it’s the Yucatan baby. 

If you don’t like being asked to do a favor for someone, or sharing freely (maybe without being asked), then this isn’t the culture for you. Things function differently in small town Yucatan. 

Disclaimer: This place may not be for you, but you should definitely come check it out for a week. 

Zentik Project:

Zentik Project is a boutique accommodation great for digital nomads spending a few days in Valladolid. They have beautiful murals everywhere, a great restaurant, yoga classes, a pool, a salt cave you can swim in, and even a nude sunbathing area. The creativity flows through all of the rooms, each one painted by a different artist. The only real downfall to this place is it’s placement just outside of the central part of town and it's relatively high price tag. 

WHERE TO STAY IN VALLADOLID?

Choosing a neighborhood in Valladolid is a piece of cake, because there are no wrong choices. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. In a place like Valladolid, positioning yourself close to the things you go to frequently makes the most sense. But the main thing to keep in mind is that Valladolid is a small city, so everything is pretty close, and if you have to take a taxi, it will only run you about 30 pesos. 

San Juan

We really loved living in San Juan. The San Juan neighborhood is close to the main plaza, just a few minutes away on foot. This barrio is starting to cultivate a bit of a bohemian atmosphere thanks to a few creative restaurants, and a few cafes that are scattered throughout. 

Keep an eye out for the Tiangis Alternative Market which pops up in the Parque de San Juan most Sunday mornings, the eco tienda a few blocks from there, which sits a few houses down from La Sandia, a bagel/juice shop that’s definitely worth taking note of, and a few Tulum-y boutiques.

Sisal

The other neighborhood we called home in Valladolid was the barrio de Sisal. Sisal is on the outskirts of town. A sleepy village that lies on the opposite side of the famous convent where you can see the nightly light show. 

You won’t find many colonial houses in sisal. Except for on the Calzada. Mostly just modest, comfortable homes, and the occasional mayan palapa. We loved living in Sisal partially  because it was close to our favorite restaurant in Valladolid. Our breakfast, lunch, and dinner go-to, Yerbabuena de Sisal.

 HOW TO FIND AN APARTMENT IN VALLADOLID

The bad news is you’re not going to find many traditional apartments or departamentos as they’re called here. Instead you’ll find lots and lots of houses, and private rooms in houses. Occasionally you’ll come across a casita (a guesthouse in a private residence) for rent. 

Casa Rosa

AirBnb is a great place to start looking, but be aware prices can be higher on this platform due to property management costs. We usually browse properties on AirBnB then visit them in person before committing to a long term rental.

Talk to people around town. Everyone seems to know someone with a house or room to rent. You’ll probably find a better deal talking to people in person rather than trying to book something online directly.

HOW TO GET TO VALLADOLID 

Closest airport

Both Merida and Cancun have international airports. Most people find that Cancun has cheaper flights than Merida. You can get to/from the airport by ADO bus or private car if you’re willing to fork over the cash. If you’ve been here more than a few weeks though, someone will probably offer to drive you. 

Transport options from airport

Getting to Valladolid from the airport is a matter of booking a bus from the Cancun Central Bus Terminal to Valladolid. Unfortunately there are no direct ADO busses from the airport to Valladolid. In order to get to the city bus terminal either book a bus from the airport to the terminal (~$5 USD) or book a super shuttle taxi (~$30 USD) taking a taxi from the airport to the Cancun Central Terminal can run you somewhere between USD $50-100. The price to go to just to another airport terminal was a steep USD $25. Needless to say, we don’t recommend taking a taxi from the airport. 

ADO bus

Be sure to note which terminal you’ll be arriving in Cancun, it matters when you book your bus ticket. There is a free shuttle that goes between the terminals.  We recommend downloading the ADO app if you have rudimentary Spanish, or you can book them online at ADO.com.mx and translate the site to English.

CAFES IN VALLADOLID

Valladolid is a small place, and we’re so grateful for the lovely cafes that we already have here. That being said, working from home all day every day can suck and this town definitely could use a few more charming cafes. 

Yerbabuena

Since we moved here to Valladolid we’ve only gotten more and more regular at Yerbabuena. They have amazing fresh food, delicious drinks, and a zen indoor/outdoor garden atmosphere. We sometimes bring our laptops with us for work, and their abundance of plugs in the garden makes it easy for us to sit outside while we work. 

Conkafecito

Located on the famous street Calzada de los Frailes, Conkafecito is our go to work spot, especially at night. They’re open from 8am til 11pm, have plenty of plugs, and air conditioning. Their wifi isn’t always the fastest, especially if it’s busy, but it is quite consistent. They offer almond milk and coconut milk, their chocolate sprinkles and chocolate cheesecake are decadent, and I always feel productive when I work here. Favorite drink: Chai Frappe with almond milk, add whipped cream and sprinkles. 

Verde Morada

Technically this is a hotel, but they also have a cafe and a stunning garden to work in. We usually pick a table with an umbrella and a fan next to it, order a light lunch, and crush it for a couple hours at a time. Look for plugs around the outside wall. Wifi isn’t the most consistent, but it’s just a lovely place to work. Gabi has ordered the almond butter frappe from Verde Morada a few times...if you’re into that kind of richness, then you must try it. 

Morena Mia

This corner cafe in San Juan always leaves their doors wide open so the breeze blows straight through. They don’t have air conditioning, but if you choose the right table you can get a killer crossbreeze. Make sure your device is charged up though, they don’t have a lot of plugs. The drinks here are great, and the staff are so friendly.

WHAT TO EAT IN VALLADOLID

Famous local food specialties

Lomitos | Lomitos de Valladolid (pictured above) is a dish consisting of bits of pork tenderloin accompanied by a thick tomato and bean stew. This dish originated in Valladolid. We love the Lomitos Sandwich at Verde Morada, but our favorite version is still the one from Chaya Maya in Merida. 

Chaya | A regional herb to Yucatan. You'll find chaya in drinks, mixed into tortillas, and even in your eggs. It took a few tastes to get into it, but we really love chaya now, especially as a drink. Try a chaya con limon with your panuchos.

Longaniza | Longaniza is a variety of smoked sausage that is famous in Valladolid. We call it “Mexican Slim Jim” and once you taste it, you'll understand why. Many places serve Huevos con Longaniza, or you can head to Temozon and try it straight from the smoker! 

Cochinita Pibil | Cochinita Pibil is like pulled pork, made from a kind of roasted pork that is cooked in an underground oven called a pib. This stuff is highly addicting, and you’ll soon find yourself ordering it atop tacos, panuchos, nachos, tostadas, or anything else really. 

Panuchos | Imagine a tortilla cut open like a pita pocket, stuffed with beans, and fried. Throw some meat, veggies, and pink onions on top and you’ve got yourself a panucho. These are by far our favorite Yucatecan style tacos.

Salbutes | Like a panucho, but minus the beans in the middle. A deep fried tortilla usually with meat, veggies and pink onions. Try the relleno negro one or the cochinita. 

Zikil Pak | One of our favorite dips to eat with totopos (tortilla chips). Zikil Pak is a mayan specialty made from ground pepitas (pumpkin seeds), tomato, and green onion. Every place does it a little different...try them all!  

Marquesitas | A regional dessert with surprising ingredients. Mexico’s take on crepes. A marquesita is like a crepe that has been cooked until crispy. The local favorite  is filled with nutella and queso de bola. For the best marquesitas in Valladolid seek out Tio Batman in the plaza principal. 

IS VALLADOLID VEGETARIAN/ VEGAN FRIENDLY?

Vegetarians and vegans know what’s up. You don’t need to rely on restaurants for your sustenance. Local markets are full of fresh fruits and veggies, and you can find something vegetarian on almost every menu if you look hard enough. 

That being said, although meat is king here in the Yucatan, vegetarian food is not unheard of. Meatless dishes like zikilpak, brazo de reina, and papadzules are found almost everywhere. 

International Food Cravings

Be prepared to immerse yourself in the Yucatecan cuisine or cook for yourself. The International options are slim, but they are quality.

Oui Oui Oui | A French style cafe and bakery that also sells French cheese. We’re obsessed with their Raclette Baguette sandwich, as well as the people who own it. 

La Sandia | La Sandia juice bar is located in barrio de San Juan. We would often pop in for a morning bagel sandwich and juice to get our day going. 

Casa Italia | Italian style Pizzas and pastas with quality ingredients 

L’Osteria della 43 | Their homemade pasta menu changes daily. Check out their Saturday Pop up Market. 

MARKETS AND GROCERIES

Central Mercado (near Cenote Zaci) | This is the best place to get fresh fruits and vegetables. The market is open til about 2pm every day, but it’s always best to go early. Note: We’ve often found better deals and better quality from the smaller shops surrounding the market. 

Tiangis | Don’t miss the Tiangis market at the Parque San Juan every Sunday. You’ll find fruits and veggies, honey, and even some art. 

EcoTienda | Coconut oil, cacao powder, local herbs and supplements, keep an eye out for fresh local artisanal bread that is out of this world. We’re talking tumeric chia loaves. Keep an eye out for other pop-up alternative markets in San Juan and Candelaria Park.

Mercado 43 | Set in a lovely back garden at Italian restaurant L’Osteria della 43, this Saturday market has stalls from Oui Oui Oui, Tresvanbien’s pastries, handmade soap and other local products. And of course a delicious menu della nonna. 

Soriana | Good produce staples, and regional products, dog food by weight. 

Bodega Aurrera | Different variety of fruits and veg, imported products, household items, like a mini walmart.

SuperChe | Just another supermarket. Basically the same as the other two. A little further out of town. Worth the trip? You tell us.

SHOPPING & ELECTRONICS

If you’re looking to buy some hip Tulum style clothes then you can definitely find that stuff here. There are a few local designers that have little boutiques around town, and some more general clothing stores in the centro.

Buying electronics and gear is basically a no go here in Valladolid. It’s really no big deal, as Merida is just 2 hours away, and so is Cancun in the other direction. We had the misfortune of seeing our iphone smash to the ground on it’s way out of a taxi one day. The very next day we booked our ADO bus tickets to Merida and bought a new one. Simple as that. 

You’ll end up paying a little bit more for electronics in Mexico than you would in the USA, but when you work from your phone you don’t have a choice but to get your shit replaced. 

ON THE GROUND INFO

The best time to visit the Yucatan is from November to March. This is the time of year when everything is slightly less hot, and you’ll still complain about the heat once a day. We’ve been told there’s a rainy season, but it’s almost August and we still haven’t seen it. 

Fitness

Gabi and I don’t rely on gyms for our personal fitness, we tend to exercise at home out of habit and convenience. Based on google reviews, it seems that Elite Gym and Gorilla Crossfit are the two most popular, but you’ll see a few different gyms around town. 

Laundry

Getting your laundry done in Mexico is as easy as googling “lavanderia.” find the nearest one, drop off your clothes, come back tomorrow to pick them up washed, dried, and folded. Pay when you pick up.

Health Concerns

Is the water safe to drink?

No, don’t drink the water in Mexico. If you’re going to be spending more than 3 days, invest in a garrafon, one of those huge 20L water jugs. You’ll pay a little extra for the deposit, but you can get your deposit back when you return the jug. 

We always use the tap water to brush our teeth. We haven’t died yet.

Mosquitos? 

There are lots of mosquitos here in the Yucatan. Everyone knows that mosquitoes carry diseases, so cover yourself, hose yourself down with repelente or be a vigilant slapper. But don’t say we didn’t warn you!

Wild animals?

Our foster dog has taken care of two possums for us so far. We’ve also seen scorpions, spiders, and lizards of all sizes, we hear about snakes all the time, but we still haven’t seen any ourselves. There are birds here that make a lot of pretty sounds, but nothing too colorful, save for the occasional bright orange oriole. We’ve seen jaguar crossing signs out in the jungle, but we’re not sure if we’re buying that or not. Keep an eye out at all times!

THINGS TO DO AROUND VALLADOLID

Cenotes

The Yucatan peninsula, like a sponge, is covered with thousands of holes (called cenotes) that are all connected by a huge system of underground rivers. These underground rivers were the main water source for the Mayan civilization. There’s no better way to cool off on a hot Yucatecan day than to go swimming in a cenote.

Conveniently, there are some great cenotes right around Valladolid. Cenote Zaci, Oxman, and SuyTun are some of the most popular, but a quick google search will reveal the multitudes of available cenotes for you to choose from. They’re all different, so be sure to visit a few.

Casa de los Venados

Casa de los Venados is a colonial mansion filled with thousands of pieces of brightly colored Mexican folk art from all over Mexico. It’s the largest privately held collection of Mexican folk art in the world. 

Don’t get confused, though. This isn’t a museum. It’s a home. The owners are an expat family from the United States who open their home at 10:00 every morning for tours in English and Spanish. The entire house, including the four guest residences inside are completely decorated from top to bottom, but don’t expect to find these rooms listed on AirBnb. They’re only for private guests of the family. Casa Venados is a must visit for any art lover. 

MAYAN RUINS NEAR VALLADOLID

You can’t come to the Yucatan without visiting some Mayan ruins. Sure, they’re probably the most visited tourist sites out here, but for good reason. Walking through these ancient sites provides an incredible context for this part of the world. You just can’t understand the modern day Yucatan without a firm grasp of the Mayan world.

Chichen Itza

Chichen Itza is by far the most famous ruin in the area. It’s just a 45 minute drive from Valladolid, and well worth the trip. We’ve been there four times, once in the day time, twice at night for the light show, and once on the equinox. 

The central pyramid is one of the most iconic images of Mexico, but be aware - tourists are not allowed to climb on the pyramid. 

The price for admission is 480 pesos, which works out to about USD $24. If you want to beat the crowds, your best bet is to show up first thing in the morning at 8:00am. You can hire a guide to take you around for an additional fee. Hiring a guide isn’t mandatory, but they do provide invaluable insight and will greatly enhance your understanding. You could spend hours walking around this huge site. 

Be sure to wear sunscreen and bring a hat, there is little shade. 

In the evening Chichen Itza reopens for a video mapping light show called “Nights of Kukulkan.” which you will need a separate ticket for. It’s super cool to walk around with audio guides and see the great pok ta pok court and other structures lit up with color at night. The video mapping on the central pyramid really helps you to imagine what these ruins would have looked like when they were painted in full color.

Ek Balam

Ek Balam isn’t nearly as popular as Chichen Itza, which just means you’ll have fewer tourists to deal with and shorter lines for admission. The ruins at Ek Balam are quite different from Chichen Itza. And... at Ek Balam you can still climb up to the top of the main pyramid. 

The admission for Ek Balam is 413 pesos, about USD $21.

We really enjoyed our time at Ek Balam. You can really get a good idea of the kinds of art and sculptures the Mayans were making back then. The views from the top of the structures are so impressive and really help to imagine what this place would have looked like over a thousand years ago. 

There is a cenote at Ek Balam so bring a bathing suit! Once you enter Ek Balam, you'll see, to your right a bike rental shop and ticket booth for the Cenote. We highly recommend renting bikes for 50 pesos and riding out to the cenote. The path is lovely, and the cenote was so refreshing after climbing around the ruins. Just makes sure to shower off and leave the sunscreen at home. 

Coba 

Rent a bike, and peddle your way around 6 km of sweet Maya ruins! We had a so much fun riding around the grounds and climbing up to the top of the big pyramid. Coba was a great day trip, and only about an hour away from Valladolid. There is also a cenote near by Coba. Coba is set right next to a large lake a nice spot to spend the day. 

Haciendas

Haciendas are old plantations which were once used for hennequin production in this region. Today they’re mostly for relaxation. Valladolid has a fantastic one just on the outside of town called Hacienda San Lorenzo Oxman. This hacienda has a restaurant, bar, pool, and a beautiful cenote perfect for swimming. Go in the early part of the day to avoid the late afternoon crowds. Check out our video from Cenote Oxman. 

NIGHTLIFE IN VALLADOLID

There really isn’t much of a nightlife here in Valladolid. This sleepy little town puts itself to bed pretty early most nights. However, there are a couple of places to drink mezcal, catch some live music, or do some salsa dancing. 

Cafeina | Cafeina is a popular spot for drinks and dancing on Calzada de los Frailes. The inside is huge and feels like a maze with lots of rooms to move thorough before you reach the back garden. They have live music just about every night, salsa dancing, and sometimes they even have mariachis playing for the guests seated along the street. 

Idilio Folklore Cervecero | Drink craft beers and snacks in a beautiful garden setting. Idilio is a super chilled out garden vibe with an impressive beer menu. They have everything from Imperial Pale Ales to Imperial Stouts, with tacos and "late night" snacks that go with, and they are open until 11:30 pm.

Conato | Conato is a great spot for late night drinks and live music. Their food isn’t anything to write home about, but definitely worth it for the music and dancing. 

Oasis Restaurant and Pizzeria | Don’t order the pizza. We warned you. Do order the margaritas! They should bring you loads of free snacks with your margarita, if not politely say “Me gustaría botanas, por favor!”

Valladolid may not seem like an amazing place to live as a digital nomad, but dig a little deeper and you’ll find out exactly what kept us here for three beautiful months. Valladolid offers the kind of small town Mexico life you can’t get in places like Merida, Playa del Carmen or Tulum. Valladolid is special.

Practice your Spanish as much as possible, and maybe learn a few phrases of Maya. They’ll get you a long way. Say buenos dias or Buenas tardes or simply buenas! when you pass someone on the street. Drop a buen provecho as you walk past people eating. These are the kinds of signals that let the locals know you’re the real deal. Be patient, and I’m confident you’ll love it here too.